Carried by the great atmosphere

Viticulture and Röthis have always been closely associated with each other. A fact that’s confirmed both by the revived vineyards on the hills and the hospitality to be encountered in the village. Some places are only remembered in names, such as ‘Gasthaus zum Krug’ or ‘Restaurant Torggel’ with its legendary ‘Torggelbaum’, which is what the old wine press was called. The former was closed a while ago, the latter demolished and, apart from the wine press, has vanished from the face of the village. This makes the conversion of a residential building built in the middle of the 19^th century into a tavern called ‘Weinlokal Rebberg’ all the more significant. Filled with new life, it lives up to its name in every respect – in regard to its history, architecture and cuisine.

The building and parlours have remained surprisingly intact in spite of the fact that the structure had stood empty for some time. A successful combination of new owner, architect and tenant proved to be a stroke of luck for the building – something that’s apparent throughout. The old and the new find themselves in balance thanks to a clever renovation (2010). On the one hand, the front of the house has retained its beautifully aged appearance while the two parlours with the original panelling are able to speak of a different time and way of life. On the other, a new internal staircase and the extension of the adjoining barn have produced clever views and options for use. The barn has been skilfully reinterpreted to create a modern look and turned into the architects’ own studio. A translucent shell made of multi-wall sheets protects the historic beams and walls and forms a clear counterpoint to the shingled front section.

‘Weinhaus Rebberg’, which opened here in 2012, is inviting from the moment you walk up the stairs: the new sandstone staircase with fine wrought-iron banister is true to the original, the wooden entrance door is stately and the central hallway with vestibule and bar is spacious. Moving on past the kitchen and down to the intersection to the barn, to the descent into the vaulted wine cellar and to the exit into the garden presents many visual axes along with the sensual quality of the materials and open structures used. The three bars and parlours offer variety: the family room with its long table welcomes guests to celebrate in large groups, the ‘Rebbergstube’ to enjoy cosy tête-à-têtes, the ‘Walgaustube’ to savour the good food and drink in the adjacent area. Guests can get comfy both here and there on chairs by Horgen-Glarus, the world through the original curved windows becomes a little removed and the lighting is discreet. Nothing in the ‘Rebberg’ is staged, over-sanitised or exaggerated. And that also applies to the food served.

Ingo Prettner, who hails from Röthn, and his wife Angelika go about their purchasing, cooking and serving tasks with an approach that is both laid-back and professional. Cooking and wine culture are Austrian by nature, what gets placed on the table is just the way you like it. The chicken liver pralines and pea puree for starters are genuine treats for the palate while the beef tartare, the old-style Viennese potato soup, veal lights, Fiaker (Coachman’s) goulash and Tafelspitz (beef boiled in broth), catfish and zander constitute reliable classics. The dishes of the day follow the seasons, a Randig carpaccio with smoked trout in winter, for instance, a fried chicken or strips of breaded ‘Henneli’ (also chicken) with colourful salads in summer – along with cool aperitifs in the vaulted cellar. Wine tastings accompanied by five-course meals are also organised from time to time. Fresh ingredients from the local area are used and the wine list entices with select varieties from across Austria that are served by the bottle or by the glass.

Those wishing to partake of the sensual magic of the Rebberg wine bar are advised to book early. Otherwise it’s a matter of relying on luck. Because everything is just right here – the price, the service, the atmosphere.